Eldar Wraithlord

Infinity PanOceania Neoterra Bolts SWC Unpacking

With the release of 3rd Edition just around the corner, I decided to pick up some Neoterra Bolts to mess around with.  Since Pen of Penemue's unpacking pics have been so invaluable in planning out my conversions, I decided to pay it forward with this pic of the Neoterra Bolt SWC box.  Looks like I'm missing one of the female's backpacks.

PAINTING TUTORIAL – POOL WATER

Here is a technique I developed when I first started playing Warhammer 40K.  I’d bought an Eldar Falcon and thought it would be cool to represent the Holo-Field with a pool water effect.  This technique can also be used for lightning or warp effects.

Before you start, find yourself a reference picture.  A simple Google search on "pool water" will yield a ton of stock photos.  Spend some time looking at this – study the different colors throughout and note the different layers.  There are areas of dark blue “deep water”, medium blues and “high water” areas of an almost icy blue.  Over all of this is a thin web of reflecting water where the light hits the waves.  To recreate this look, we’ll be using layers of progressively lighter blues and then smoothing the entire look down with an ink wash. 

Tools

• ·         White Primer
• ·         Kantor Blue
• ·         Caledor Sky Blue
• ·         Lothern Blue
• ·         White Scar
• ·         Sky Blue Ink
• ·         Tank Brush
• ·         Dry Brush
• ·         Detail Brush

Step 1: Prime White

White primer yields brighter, more vibrant colors.  Always use white for this effect.

Step 2: Basecoat the “Deep Water”

After watering down your Kantor Blue, apply two thin coats with your tank brush.  Two thin coats are better than one thick as you want a clean, smooth surface and avoid any drops or chunks. 

Step 3: Stipple the “Medium Water”

This next step involves a technique called stippling – or dabbing at your model with a dry brush that’s been lightly loaded with paint.  This will ruin your brush over time as it causes the bristles to curl outward a bit. 

After watering down your Caledor Sky slightly, dip your dry brush lightly.  Run it over a paper towel to remove some of the paint, leaving a little more than you normally would if you were dry brushing.  Dab the brush onto your model lightly – just enough so that the bristles bend slightly.  Repeat in a giraffe-like pattern, leaving oval and circular shapes of deep water.

Step 4: Stipple the “High Water”

Next, prepare a mix of 50% Caledor Sky and 50% Lothern Blue.   Follow the same technique and idea as the Medium Water, but don’t just stipple  in the center of the Medium Water areas.  Shake it up a bit.  It’s okay if you have an area of Medium Water, then High Water, then Deep Water as it shows were the water crests and then dips down sharply.  Use your pool water picture for reference.

Step 5: Paint the “Crests”

This next step takes a steady hand.   Grab your detail brush and water down your Lothern Blue.  Using a very light touch, paint on the “web” of reflective light across your pattern.  Again, do not just follow the center of the Medium and High Water areas – these can cross all over your model.

The pattern is similar to the giraffe – roughly oval shapes connected to each other – but you can add thin connecting lines in between and some that trail off into nothing.  Smear some areas with your finger as you paint to help smooth transitions while leaving others relatively sharp.

Don’t get discouraged if your lines turn out too thick.  You can paint them thinner with one of your other mixes.

Step 6: Highlight with White Scar

In this step, take a little white and apply it to the crests sparingly where the lines intersect.  This will help accentuate them more and bring more depth.  You don’t have to do every intersection and can even do a few mid-line if you please.

Step 7: Ink Wash

This is one of the most satisfying steps, the ink really smooths out the colors and causes the model to pop.  Fill a small bowl or glass of water.  Taking your tank brush, first dip the end in the Sky Blue ink and then into the water.  You can touch it to your paper towel if needed if you think you’re loaded it too much. Then brush onto your model. 

If your ink was too strong/dark, you can go back with your detail brush and pick out the crests and peaks with your Lothern Blue and White Scar until you're happy.

And there you have it!  You could experiment with green, red or even purple.  The key is a light touch with the detail brush and taking your time.  Don't be afraid to smear out lines with your finger if they go on too thick.  

Dismounted Templar Grand Master

Spent some time painting the Templar - he didn't quite come out as expected.  He's not horrible, but just not quite what I was expecting.  Should have taken a picture from the back to show his lion cloak.

Rank N File Started

It's been awhile since my last post - I was hemming and hawwing over what province to go with on my rank n' file.  The yellow recipe I tried didn't come out as planned.  Vermin brown basecoat makes it look too dirty and I wasn't happy.  I'd hoped to go Nordland (blue/yellow), but had Altdorf (blue/red) and Middenland (blue/white) as back-ups because red and white are easier.  But first, I decided to give yellow another try.

Second try, I laid down a basecoat of Golden Yellow and washed some Vermin into the shaded areas.  Not perfect, but I like it enough for tabletop. I actually highlighted with Sunburst yellow too, which is anethema to some painters but I think it looks just fine.

I'd bought these minis used and already assembled - didn't realized they hadn't been cleaned so there's still some bad mold lines.  Oh well.

As you can see, I prime white for brighter colors, use GW metallics for armor / weapons and leave the heads off so it's easier to paint.  Since it takes me soooo long to paint, most the armies I play don't have heads for a long time.

Red accent color for ribbons and such, bone colored parchment, skulls and - well - bones..I paint the barefoot guys with dark brown feet so they look like shoes and don't draw attention.  Thinking I might do everyone with hair as a ginger.

More Work on the Swan

Lots of progress and changes.  I hit the yellow feathers with a bunch of coats of Golden Yellow using a fine brush - it came out far better than my last attempts so I'm pleased with the results.  The pics don't show it very well, but there's  a nice contrast to the Vermin Brown and it doesn't look dirty.  I'm hoping I can repeat this performance with the red and I've given them a light Badab Black wash to start.

The chestplate and seat got a first coat of Shining Gold and then a wash with Devlan Mud.  I decided that the Captain's blue armor looked a little too matchy-matchy so I repainted it to Boltgun metal.  I'll highlight it up to Mithril to make it look all fancy.  I like the contrast better and it adds more color to the model.  It also makes deciding on the sleeves a lot easier. I painted the slashed up to Golden Yellow and gave the rest a basecoat of Regal Blue.

I revisited the feathers on the Swan.  I think I went too heavy on the bone/white before and they lacked a bit of depth.  I hit the shaded parts again with a very light Devlan Mud and think it turned out good.  More of a contrast, especially on the under-wing.

He's trucking along!

Templar Grandmaster on Foot

Long have I admired Rafal Maj and his work over on Bloody Beast, his Warhammer blog.  Especially his Elector Count conversion.  Striking and imposing, I was inspired to create my own - imagining him a stalwart Grand Master of the Knights Panther leading a unit of dismounted nobles, a lion's cape draped over his shoulders.

The conversion is simple enough - Chaos Warrior body, Empire Knight head, and a plastic Runefang where Rafal kept the original Warrior's sword.  I chose the warrior body with the claw and the skull on the kneecap.  What's Empire without a few skulls?

Hmmm.  Now for the shield.  Need something worthy of this stallion and big enough to cover the chaosy arrows on his breastplate.  After checking around, I found that Scibor makes some pretty awesome shields.  This one is just stuck in place for the picture and I'll need to sculpt an arm to go along.

Hellz yeah.  Like I mentioned, I plan on painting the cloak like a lions pelt: brown mane and desert yellow skin.  I could do the armor in a blue lacquer and the headdress like Rafal's.  The shield, I'm thinking, could be cool in a blue field with a gold lion - or even a gold field with blue lion.  Hmmmmm.  I may liquid greenstuff the chainmail in to make it into cloth - another opportunity to add color and tie the look together.

He really towers over the standard Empire troops and there's no mistaking that he's a hero.